While trying to figure out a suitable route from Udaipur to Kochi, I had been seeing a place called 'Vijayapura' on Google maps, which I had not noticed in the past. It's as if a new place has sprung up. While speaking to local people  in Ellora, I realised that's Bijapur!  Imagine how a historic town can get erased from the map!  We were to halt there after Ellora. I told Krish we will visit Ibrahim Roza and Gol Gumbaz and head out around 2 pm. He wasn't keen claiming he has

When I moved back to Kerala in Feb 2025, I had left my Mahindra Thar in Delhi hoping to do a road trip to Leh in June. Thar was kept with Deepa, my friend, with a condition that she would drive it at least twice a week. Then came the heinous terrorist attack on tourists in Baisaran Valley and subsequent war like situation, followed by unsuitable months marred by torrential rains and landslides. And winter when roads are not motorable.  My ‘Leh Drive’ remained a dream. So, I d